It has been a while since my last update, I know. I'm sorry, but I got a bit sick and I'm well on the road to recovery. In fact, I spent today exploring and walking my healthy and able body around the city. I for got my camera which was a huge no-no, but that just means you get colorful, rich and detailed descriptions. Doesn't that make it all better? I thought so. First, I should tell you I spent all of yesterday poring over the Paris guidebook my host mom lent me. It's great - a detailed book that covers all bases pretty well. I decided to start with one of the city's well-known flea markets and end with mass at the Notre Dame. I found out the one at Porte de Vanves was only a half hour walk from my apartment, so I decided to take a stroll. Best idea I have had all week, I tell you. It took me so much longer than a half hour to find this place because A) I have the worst sense of direction and B) I had spectacular stops along the way.
I was doing great with the map after I got lost just five minutes after leaving my place. A friendly local pointed me in the right direction and I was golden for a good while. Then, I ran into this lovely weekend book market. Oh, how I wish I had my camera! But it's every weekend, so I am quite a lucky duck. Along with a beautiful and varied array of books from dozens of vendors, I came at the perfect time - lunch time - to see all the vendors enjoying their meals. There were these three men that stood out in particular. The shared this small round table and each of their stalls were just behind them. On their plates they had this delicious looking roasted chicked and potatoe croquettes. Yum! And of course there was a great big bottle of wine in the center for them to share. I wish I could have joined them. I continued on my way through the books and found a stand of little books. Wait, let me describe what the place looked like becase there weren't any separate stalls or shelves or stands at all. I don't know what to call them, but they looked like gigantic unpolished wood crates. The books were all neatly organized, piled, and displated on them. Have you ever been to Costco? And you've seen the books and movies section, right? Yes, well, it's sort of like that, but so much better. The books are just out, doing what they do, waiting to be picked up and looking gorgeous. Oh, I must take pictures when I go next weekend. Back to the little books I found. They were so lovely! I found these purple leather ones that enticed me so. There was one on zodiac signs, another on the lines in the palm of the hand and the third (the one I wanted to buy the most) was on the language of flowers. All three were goldleafed on the front and the edges of the pages were tipped with gold as well. Delicate old books were wrapped carefully in waxpaper. I loved that. It made them so fragile despite the wax paper being meant for protection. There were pocket version of Moliere plays, Romeo and Juilet, books on the lives of saints. And I found a few copies of Tristan and Iseult which reminded me of Juan and Dr. Matriotti.
Alas, I had to move along and that's when my sense of direction began to falter. I ended up walking in the opposite direction of where I needed to be again, but I found this out on my own when my 15 minutes of walking came to nothing but more boring sidewalk. I take that back a little. My walk although useless was quite lovely. There was a bikers' path on my left and the rest of the sidewalk was wide and open for pedestrians. The French lightrail ran through the middle of the street and it was nice to watch because it was swift and quiet and it held so many people. There were these great trees. They looked like aspens, but I couldn't be sure. And so, I had to turn myself around and found myself walking into a fresh fruit and vegetable market. It was so alive! People were reaching above my head for the colorful hanging plastic sacks to fill them with fresh produce. There was a vendor yelling out to people as they passed to see how his fruits were the nicest. But the best part about it was there were a lot of Middle Eastern people (the vendors too) and they were talking in Arabic! Ahh! The other language I kind of know. No but really, I heard little snitches of things like Oh you're from Egypt?, Go!, Hurry!, No! Yes! Hello! I felt so cool to be able to be in a foreign country and understand two languages different from my own native tongue. I ended up buying four beautiful nectarines that had the unfortunate fate of hanging out in my huge purse all day. I'm glad I had such a big purse! Man, I fit everything in there. My cardigan, guidebook, day planner, wallet, sunglasses, four necartines, a bottle of peach iced tea, chapstick and a bunch of other little items. Whew! So awesome!
I moved on and got directions to the flea market I had intentions to go to two hours before, but when I found it the morning crowd was already packed up and leaving and I think the afternoon vendors were going to fill in but I didn't want to wait for hours just to see if it would open again. I have time! I'll go back. Instead, I took the metro the Ile-de- la Cite where the Notre Dame is. On my way there I found a beautiful scarf that someone dropped. I held it in my hand so that if anyone saw it and claimed it as theirs I could give it back. Lucky for me, no one said anything. Yeah! I got a new and beautiful scarf. So I made it to the 5th Arrondisement and got lost again so I had to gain my bearings. OH! I forgot to mention as I was walking out of the metro, I found myself at the beginning of another street market. This time it was for birds and pets. Seriously, cages of chickens, roosters, canaries, what-have-you. I was going to walk down it, but it was kind of stinky so I passed. After standing next to a rack of postcards for 15 minutes, I gave up trying to find myself on my map and I just walked straight. Boy, was I bit by the lucky bug but I stumbled upon Place de St. Michel - so close to my school! I realized I was hungry so I walked down a little alley off the Place and found Boulangerie de Papa where there was a little crepe stand attached to it. And for less that 4 euro I was able to buy and enjoy a huge ham and cheese crepe. SO GOOD. I'll definitely be going back. I spent an hour in their patio/sitting area looking over my book and making notes about where the good bars were. Don't worry, I'm not looking for a night a insanity...just a little harmless mayhem. I kid, but not really.
Afterwards, I decided to walk and just see where I would end up. Luck again, I realized I was walking down rue de St. Gernain which connected me to rue St. Jacques. Why is this important? These streets are just minutes from the main office of my program/school. I decided to map out where I would be going tomorrow so I didn't get (inevitably) lost. After 45 minutes of getting on and off track, I found it! Wow, it was a tiny, tiny street just behind the Pantheon which has about a dozen tiny, tiny streets leading off of it. I recorded the directions in my Blackberry and I'll be set for tomorrow. I bought myself a celebratory McFlurry. They put caramel or fudge in theirs! It was amazing, but I think next time I'll get a different type of candy.
Finished my treat and headed to the Cathedral. It's always nice just retracing your steps. You always know you're going the right way. Once I realized I was an hour early for mass, I checked out the little souvenir shops (cough-tourist traps-cough) and admired the pashminas. I was about to get three for 12 euros, but I remembered there was a shop in Montparnasse that had the same if not better scarves in more colors and they were three for 10 euro. I showed them! I decided to sit in the courtyard-ish area in front of the Notre Dame and wait until 6 to get in so that I would have a seat. Of course, I panicked because the line was so long that I ended up getting inside at 6. When I made my way in I panicked because I heard singing and I thought I got the time wrong. After about 15 minutes or so I realized I was sitting in on Vespers and so I enjoyed it and waited for mass. Good choice. After the singing, I moved up a bit and got a better seat. It was a really nice mass that could have been a billion times better if they closed it off to tourists who wander around and take flash pictures and sit in the service and then move and make noise after 2 minutes. Gosh! But it was sweet because a cardinal presided over it. I should have written his name down, but I got a picture of him on my phone, which makes up for it, right? He gave a homily that I could really understand. It was good it was on a topic and gospel reading I had heard many times. I would go back, but I think my goal is to find a beautiful mass sans annoying tourist boogers. Maybe it'll die down when summer is really over.
Right after mass I took the metro back to my apartment...you know, I'll need to figure out the bus and light rail system, but the metro map is just so much easier to read right now. I skyped with Tomas and then Juan, got my backpack ready for school and tentatively chosemy outfit. I am so excited for my first day!!! I hope everyone is nice. My goal is to make one stable, adventurous, nice and good natured friend. My expectations don't seem too high, right?
Wish me luck! I'm off to bed. Bon nuit!
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